Have questions about your trench drain installation?
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Have questions about your trench drain installation?  Looking for replacement patio grates or advice on what trench drain to use for a driveway?  Give us a call!  We welcome any and all questions, comments and feedback.


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Trench Drain Blog is brought to you by Trench Drain Systems, a trench drain supply company based in Fremont, OH.


11 thoughts on “Contact Us

  1. ROY GUERCIO says:

    I am looking for advice on how to best transition a drainage ditch 100′ long about 20″ wide and 20″ deep to a drainage ditch .
    My house is located on the lower part of a steep hill and there is a large amount of rain water that I need to channel in to a common swell . I have already dug the trench, lined it with cloth, and filled it with septic drain field rock. The trench moves the water to the lowest point in the yard but I am stuck on how to make the best transition to the drain.
    Any suggestions or pictures would be greatly appreciated.

    • Trench Drain Expert says:

      Generally speaking, Polycast, and all other channel drains, are recommended to be placed in the soil within an envelope of concrete. The manufacturers will not warrantee the product if it is not sufficiently supported on all sides. There are times where I can agree with using minimal concrete use. This would be in an application such as a paver patio drain. Still, I would used a base of concrete when installing this drain.

  2. Greg says:

    HI, I enjoyed reading your blog on trench drains. What I didn’t see was an example of a trench drain in soil on a hillside. Most of what you show are examples in driveways, walkways with nice flat stable areas that include a grate. My house is built on a hillside and when built, the owner installed an unreinforced concrete trench drain around the perimeter on the uphill side. This drained the surface water to one side of the house where it was sent to a downhill area to soak in or run off safely away from the house. Well, after 25 years this concrete drain has broken away in many areas and now is a cause of major erosion at the points of breakage. I need to replace it. I want to use some sort of preform drain but I can’t seem to find any that would work. Do you know of such a product?

    The perimeter is uneven and moves around a lot over the seasons (why the old drain cracked and broke). What I am imagining is a half-pipe type of product that I can dig a trench for and connect to piping. On the uphill side I would need some sort of membrane so that water doesn’t find it’s way under the drain.



  3. Kim Mailes says:

    Great blog! It’s very helpful.

    I was hoping to find more information about a project I’m about to tackle. I am preparing to retrofit a garage floor with a trench drain around the perimeter, installed just in front of workbenches, that will allow me to wash my cars indoors. I intend to route the gray-water drainage collected by the trench drain to a french drain under the adjacent lawn for dispersal.

    Because this is a retrofit, I am trying to figure out a way to slope the trench drain toward the outlet when installing it in the existing level concrete garage floor. Could you direct me to how-to tips, or to the description of a similar project?

    Again, thanks for a very helpful blog, and I hope to hear from you.

    (Mr.) Kim Mailes
    Neosho, Missouri

    • Trench Drain Expert says:

      Kim…….Thanks for the question. There are trench drain systems which are “pre-sloped”. These channels allow you to by-pass the need for sloping your drain. These systems have sequential channel bodies, that when attached in the proper order, will give you a continuous 0.6% slope to the drain. Consider Dura Slope or Polycast 600 as a product choice.

    • Trench Drain Expert says:

      Trench Drain installations can be done by a number of contractors. Inside a building, usually plumbing contractors seem to be a good choice. Large outside drains, in parking lots or roadways for instance, concrete, excavating and paving contractors seem to do the work. In paver patio applications, I have seen landscaping contractors installing trench drain. Home driveways are best served by a small concrete contractor, that has the ability to cut asphalt or concrete, excavate, and trench (and repair) the lawn if drainage pipe needs to be laid. I’d look for a contractor that specializes in small jobs. Make sure he has had previous trench drain experience. I’ve seen too many bad installations where the contractor has had no trench drain experience prior to being urged, by the homeowner, to make an installation. It in not a pretty site.

  4. Pete says:

    I was hoping you could comment/provide some direction on handling sediment in a trench drain. I’m planning to use a trench in a new garage with the trench down the entire middle of the garage and the floor pitched to it. I like the segmental drain pieces that auto-create the slope of the drain. I’m concerned with sediment washing into the drain and clogging the exit pipe though. How can I best prevent that from occuring? I would prefer something that’s relatively easy to clean. Thanks.

    • HannahS says:

      Hi Pete! It’s an unfortunate fact that sediment always finds its way into trench drain systems. Pre-sloped trenches are touted as a system that cleans itself with the flow of water while flat bottomed neutral channels are easier to clog.

      If the water flow is strong enough, you don’t need to worry about a build-up since it is carried away by the force of the current. But in a garage that will (hopefully) see minimal flow, I would opt for one of the following:
      1. A catch basin set at the end of the trench drain. This functions to allow the water to settle, which causes sediment to gather inside the basin instead of the pipe. You might be limited with depth, however.
      2. Some drainage systems offer end outlet strainers. These usually catch larger debris such as leaves, but you could retrofit one with smaller mesh to catch finer particulates.
      Of course, no drain is without its upkeep. You’ll need to remove a grate to scoop, sweep or flush sediment out of your trench drain periodically. You may even be okay without special fixtures on your drain if you clean the system regularly.
      If you have any other questions, feel free to email me at [email protected]

  5. Dirk Wiemer says:

    Hello, my recently bought house has interior damp problems in rooms where on the outside recently new terraces were built, which have raised the ground level, by up to 30 inches, even slightly above the inside floor level. I was thinking of digging a trench right next to the outside wall, about 14 inches deep, i.e. around 6 inches deeper than the lower end of the floor joists (the house has suspended timber flooring) and the presumed damp proof course. My question is: do you think it is better to install a trench drain on the bottom of this trench, i.e. dig even deeper. Or can I just put the plastic trench into this 14 inches deep trench and fill it up with gravel? I would be hesitant to fill it up with concrete, as it directly borders the house wall and – at least for period buildings – it is usually. It a good idea to seal off walls completely as they need to be able to “breathe” and dry out the existing, excessive damp levels. Many thanks for your help!

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